Is My Roof Good for Solar? The 2026 Homeowner Checklist

You have been thinking about solar. Your electric bill keeps climbing. Your neighbors got panels. But before you call an installer, you need to know one thing.

Is your roof actually good for solar?

Most homeowners skip this step. They call an installer, get a quote, and sign a contract. Then they find out their roof has problems that make solar a bad investment.

Here is the checklist to run through before you talk to anyone.

1. How old is your roof?

Solar panels last 25 to 30 years. If your roof is 10 years old or older, you will likely need to replace it during the life of your panels. That means removing the panels, replacing the roof, and reinstalling the panels. Double the cost.

The rule: If your roof is more than 10 years old, plan to replace it before installing solar. Or budget for a roof replacement mid-system life.

2. What direction does your roof face?

In the Northern Hemisphere, south-facing roofs produce the most energy. East and west-facing roofs still work but produce 15 to 25 percent less. North-facing roofs are usually not worth it.

The rule: South is best. East and west are acceptable. North is a pass.

3. How much shade does your roof get?

This is where most homeowners get caught. Trees that look fine in summer cast long shadows in winter. Your neighbor's house might block afternoon sun. Even a chimney can shade a row of panels.

Shade on just one panel can reduce the output of an entire string. Modern microinverters help, but shade is still the number one reason solar installations underperform.

The rule: Your roof needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day during winter months, not just summer.

4. What is your roof material?

Asphalt shingles are the easiest and cheapest to install solar on. Tile roofs work but require special mounting hardware. Metal roofs are excellent if they are standing seam. Flat roofs need ballasted racking systems.

Some roofs, like clay tile or slate, require careful handling to avoid breakage during installation.

The rule: Asphalt shingle and standing seam metal are ideal. Tile and flat roofs work but cost more.

5. What is your roof pitch?

Roof pitch is the angle of your roof. The ideal pitch for solar is between 30 and 45 degrees. This angle maximizes sun exposure and allows rain to wash dust off the panels.

Flat roofs (less than 10 degrees) need special racking to tilt the panels. Very steep roofs (over 60 degrees) are difficult and expensive to install on.

The rule: 30 to 45 degrees is the sweet spot. Flatter or steeper means higher installation costs.

6. How much usable roof space do you have?

A typical residential solar system is 6 to 10 kilowatts. That requires roughly 300 to 500 square feet of unobstructed roof space.

If your roof is small, has many obstructions (vents, skylights, chimneys), or is mostly shaded, you may not have enough space for a meaningful system.

The rule: You need at least 300 square feet of clear, unshaded roof space.

7. What are your local building codes and HOA rules?

Some HOAs have restrictions on solar panel placement or appearance. Some cities require special permits or have historic district rules.

Check your local codes before you invest time in getting quotes.

The rule: Call your HOA and city building department before signing anything.

The fastest way to check all of this

You can research each of these items yourself. It takes hours. You might still miss something.

Or you can get a satellite-powered roof analysis in 60 seconds for $19. SolrScan checks shade, orientation, roof age estimation, usable space, and more. No sales call. No account needed. Instant delivery.

Get your SolrScan report for $19

Bottom line

Do not call an installer until you know your roof qualifies. A $19 pre-qualification report saves you from wasting time on deals that will never work.

Check your roof first. Then talk to installers with real data in hand.

Get your SolrScan report for $19